Darkly Labs Community

The Core, so far

No I’m not a Kiwi.

Plywood

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???

Mirrors

Norton method on white tile

Slate

Card paper

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Wood

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NoWT

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Border offset, flood fill

That’s some of the successes.

3 Likes

Wow! What a great start, well done and keep it up!!

  • Lliam

Absolutely fantastic works :slight_smile:

Thanks for sharing…

Salvi

Amazing work Robert and on a variety of materials.

Well done.

Domenic

Thanks to Liam, Salvi & Domenic, I appreciate your comments very much guys. I love these machines, they’re so versatile. More Norton on white tile jobs coming up. In case you’re wondering about the photo’s on orange/gold & yellow /gold. They’re put through a sketch type filter & engraved on gold card paper. Looking directly at them the image is white, viewing from an angle show the photo’s as black images

1 Like

Robert, the Norton Tiles are fantastic. Did you spray it with white Rustoleum?

Can you share maybe the settings? Do you edit the graphics with the editor in Lightburn, GIMP or do you use other software?

I have also done some experiments with white Rustoleum, but the engravings was to dark. If I knew your settings, I could keep experimenting with mine.

By the way: I achieved the alien with the surface structure with nitro thinner. I didn’t clean the white rustoleum away, just put nitro thinner on the surface. Then waited 24 hours. The paint on the surface doesn’t peel off and looks kind of interesting.

Thanks again for your informations.

Salvi

G’day Salvi, sorry for the slow reply. I’m happy to share my settings with you. I found some pages on Facebook that really helped but I’ve only been doing the Norton method for tiles, a bit over 2 weeks, so I’m still very much learning & from what I can tell even the so called experts make mistakes. As for software that’s a tough question. Sometimes I use software called ImagR which has really helped with some photos but not with others (there’s a free online version). Sometimes I use Photoshop to lighten images a little & remove the background. Sometimes I just use Lightburn & adjust the gamma etc. till I think it will work but, it is a real hit or miss process. The best thing you can do is test test test. I’d suggest getting on Facebook & pages like Norton’s Den of Lasers (straight from the source), Lightburn Laser Creations (unofficial), Free Laser Engraving Files, Photo Laser Engraving - Tile or Wood. All of these pages show great projects with plenty of free files to use, ready to go. Photos on tiles are particularly hard because they have to look quite black before they work, the hard part as I’m sure you are aware is knowing how dark an image should be & not introducing artifacts. For this image below my settings were. Gamma=0.550, Contrast=21, Brightness=11, Enhance Amount=125.0, Enhance Denoise=5, Speed=1500mm/m, Power=80% although I wonder if I overpower at times? & yes I use Rust-Oleum. If you want any more of my settings just let me know which image. I’m happy to help, if I can.

For General Custer (my 4th attempt at NoWT method & my 1st attempt doing people) my settings were. Gamma=0.900, Contrast=3, Brightness=2, Enhance Amount=100.0, Speed=800mm/m, Power=45 (on a 90x90mm tile). The image came from a post on Facebook.

I just completed this image but it took hours & hours of testing & altering the photo before I got a good result. This image was put straight into LB because ImagR didn’t help. By the way, I love your tile frames, I must try to get some. Thanks for the info on your Alien tile. Cheers, Rob

Hello Rob

Thank you very much for your effort and also to gather so much informations. These are very interesting for me because, I compared them with mine and the settings turn out very similar.

Your tiles look really very clean and professional.

As you rightly said, you have to test, test and test again. The big problem though, is not necessarily the price of the tiles themselves, they are not very expensive, whereas the Rustoleum spray is. This is extremely expensive.
Here in Switzerland I have to pay a little more than 40$ for a 500ml can. And every image that is lasered is different as far as the settings are concerned. So you can’t always use the same settings.

Thanks for the info regarding your software used. I was playing with the GIMP plug-in DA Big Gimping Plug-in Process for GIMP With V3 and DA-Scripts for Photoshop until the last Lightburn update, but my results were not really exciting.
Now I’m going to keep experimenting with Lightburn and laser values, including yours.

By the way: Your last picture is really great. It is obvious that you spent a lot of time on it.

Since I’m not on Facebook, I could only look at the Norton’s Den of Lasers Facebook link, which is open to all. Very interesting things are to be found here.

If you (and of course the other readers here on the forum) are interested, you can find a few more links where I take my documents/ideas.

https://www.cgtrader.com/3d-models?keywords=cnc&file_types%5B%5D=51

https://suncatcherstudio.com/all-articles/

https://www.etsy.com/de/shop/3dmodelsByVadim?listing_id=675909010&ref=shop_overview_header#items

https://www.etsy.com/search/?q=3d+models+design&order=most_relevant&view_type=gallery

https://www.etsy.com/de/shop/3dmodelstore?ref=simple-shop-header-name&listing_id=604374792

https://www.etsy.com/search/?q=OG+STL+Furniture&order=most_relevant&view_type=gallery

https://artline3d.ru/

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipOiR6jhmgEuZwXsQnk_iY9Jlsut7jIap_WNwGaK0mNPVMiQ0suWT-EAzbcPKGvVUQ?key=ajlzdU5JRmVCcnNJR0xraV9fRDZfd2lhNTd1blVB

https://goodwarehk.com/products

Sorry, did not mean to hijack your thread :slight_smile:

 

As for the frames, I bought them on an auction platform. The frames look elegant, but when the plates in the frame are pressed in and these are attached to a wall, they do not hold and can fall out. I still have to think of something to fix the frame with the plates.

Again, thank you very much for everything and keep going like this, you are on a very good way.

Greetings

Salvi

G’day Salvi. Wow & I thought $14 AuD was a lot for Rust-Oleum, that’s about $10.50 USD for a 340gm spray can. No hijack here mate, all good. Thanks for the info & appreciate your positive feedback. Personally, if I was you I’d do my testing on MDF, cardboard or even better yellow card paper from a craft store. I’ve used card paper for testing when doing wood designs. Apart from turning the power down so you don’t burn through it, it’s gonna give you a good idea of how you’re design is looking. All the best, keep up the good work. Cheers, Rob.

P.S. That’s an Aussie muscle car. These tests were done using a 40W CO2

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New product

LED backlit glass

Hi Rob, I’ve been following this thread for a while now. Super high quality stuff, really appreciate you sharing it. 
I’m curious about the mirror pieces you’ve done. What’s your technique for getting the colours?

G’day Chris, sorry for the slow response. Mirrors are one of the easier things I do. Flip the mirror over (don’t forget to flip your design too). Laser the back, you’re just taking the paint off. 70-80% power & 2100mm/m with 2 passes is a good place to start, you may have to go slower but, you might also be able to go a little faster too (?). I use silver duct tape to remove any leftover burnt bits & then clean with metho. Apply spray paint to the lasered areas using the appropriate colours (multiple coats may be needed). I use masking tape to cover the areas that are a different colour. If you want to split a word or an image into 2 or more colours, use frog tape because masking tape will feather around the edges. Think about the design & the order you need to paint because you don’t want to have to re-tape any painted parts, just paint 1 colour at a time & remove the tape then paint the next section. Make sure you fold up one end of the tape for easy removal after painting. I’ve also been able to use coloured card paper & tape that on instead of paint with some mirrors. I hope that helps Chris. Cheers, Rob