Darkly Labs Community

Best way to prevent heat spots under work

Anyone have some tips to prevent heat spots under cuts where he beam hits he mats in a cut? Top surface looks great, but behind is spotty. Or clean up advice? I’m using plywood

Hi Richard,

My suggestion would be to ditch the silicon altogether.
I use a piece of 1.5mm thick stainless steel with self adhesive rubber feet on the bottom.

I then use a stack of five 5mm diameter x 2mm thick magnets to support my plywood 10mm above the stainless. A couple more magnets on top holds the plywood in position and superbly flat. The magnets can be re-arranged however you need them and 90% of the time the bottom actually comes out looking better than the top surface which needs a bit of sanding with 320 grit (no-clog) sand paper.

Every few jobs the stainless needs to be cleaned with some multipurpose wipes as the glue from the plywood build up on it.

A few others use a similar method, check out the thread here: https://darklylabs.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/community/posts/115000148851-Another-way-to-hold-ply-flat-and-cut-with-an-airspace-

Jeremy

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Wow that’s amazing! I actually bought some magnets to do just that but hadn’t bought a plate for the bottom. Could I just stick them to the base of the Emblaser?

You could, however, it would mark the base of the E2 since it is painted.
Before I had the stainless steel plate I just used a flat silicon ‘baking’ mat to protected the base of my E2. However using the silicon mat you still get the same issues and it made a big mess before it eventually wore through.
If you find a local metal shop they will probably have some off cuts of stainless steel that you could buy from them cut to size. It doesn’t matter about the thickness or the grade just something you don’t mind lifting in and out of the E2 occasionally. It is also worthwhile getting some emery cloth (sand paper) to smooth down any rough edges and corners. The rubber feet help to stabilise the whole thing and keep it flat.

Jeremy

Thanks Jeremy. I’m presuming you measure everything up so you know the height of your material. I’ll have to look into it.

No worries.
When it comes to choosing the height I have a calibration file similar to Darkly Labs’ which helps me choose the best height including the laser head offset which I enter directly into the operation height. I always leave the offset height to be ‘0’.

I’m happy to provide the workspace file if you would like it.

Jeremy

 

That sounds interesting. So you’d have to run that everytime though right? Do you have a material that is the same thickness as a calibration material of sorts? Interested the process you use for this.

I only run the calibration if there is a major change with the machine, similar to the darkly labs calibration. At the moment I’m only cutting the one type of plywood so there are no need to run multiple calibrations.